After I made that lemon mousse the other day, I kind of got
mousse on the brain. It’s comfortable
there. Right at home, you might
say. Among other things, I have always
been perfectly content to eat a bowl of whipped cream when I had the chance; as
a child, the task of licking the beaters and the bowl were my exclusive domain,
and my college roommate used to take me right smartly downtown for a large
creampuff when I showed signs of extreme distress, so clearly I failed to grow
out of the fondness.
Having tackled the lemon, I set my sights on a coffee
mousse. Drinking coffee is one youthful
habit I have surrendered; though I love the flavor of it, I abused its powers
so severely during the last two years of high school that I hung up my mug of
my own volition, alarmed by the jitters and headaches that went along with the
admittedly delightful aspects of the ritual.
I consigned the use of the cup of joe to medically necessary situations--sole
driver on a late-night drive, for instance--and otherwise abstained, sniffing longingly at other
people’s cups.
On a trip to Italy years ago (during which voyage, incidentally, I
knocked out a temporary crown on a rear molar eating a creampuff) with my
already coffee-craving pre-school-age daughter, a kindly barista prepared her a
“caffe bimba”—a steamed milk laced with a grain ‘coffee’ that he called caffe orzo. She lapped it up. Fine for her, but no coffee-lover over the age of four and in their right
mind would maintain their resistance in Italy, right? Only the fact that I was hugely pregnant
shored up my resolve, and motivated me to try the kindercoffee. It was delicious: roasty and rich and very
convincing. We bought some to bring
home, where numerous attempts by various methods of grinding and brewing
produced everything from dishwater to compost tea.
So began a survey of various grain-based coffee substitutes. I found one that tasted kind of acceptable to
me, but when I served it to my mother (a gold-standard Coffee Achiever of the
highest order) she gagged and said it tasted “like burnt salmon.” You can bet it
was hard to finish that can, once that association had been made. Now we use (but do not serve to Nana)
something called Dandy Blend, which to my tastebuds has all I miss of coffee.
I made the mousse with it and was quite happy. But the mousse was a little sweet, and I also wondered
if others would want to use the real deal, not some hippie grain substitute,
and thought I had better test it out that way.
The formerly pre-school-age, still coffee-obsessed daughter, now my height,
agreed heartily that this was called for, having inherited my feelings for whipped cream and coffee both.
Life can only be lived forward, but understood in
reverse—didn’t someone say that? And
then there is my favorite adage: “if you can’t set a good example, at least you
can serve as a horrible warning.” (If I ever get a tattoo, that will be it.)
The short version of the story: both less sugar than I used in the first attempt AND using true coffee work well.
Proportions and directions are given below. The longer, YouTube-ready answer: on a night
when your cousin and her two small children, one running a fever, are in town
for a few days and staying for dinner, and you face both a firm 7pm commitment
for your teenager and a windfall of tomatoes, and it is 86 degrees in the
kitchen, do NOT give in to the temptation to make two versions of mousse while
preparing dinner, fielding requests for snacks, and roasting three trays of
tomatoes. Do NOT listen to the kindly
cousin, who along with your time-anxious teenager is helpfully halving tomatoes
and trimming broccoli while other foodstuffs fly through the air around her
presumably-vacationing head, when she says “are you sure the cream will whip at
that speed? I always have to turn it up to
get anywhere.” Do NOT think, well, when
I do that, it splatters but I guess if I drape a kitchen towel over the mixer
I’ll be fine.
Are you worried that I am about to tell you that the kitchen
towel got caught in the beaters and there is whipped cream in my light fixtures
and a burned-out motor in my KitchenAid?
No, I am a good towel-draper. And
had the tented stand-mixer been my only responsibility, it all would have ended
peacefully. But I had a frittata and
some garlic bread finishing under the broiler, and four children traipsing
through the house merrily playing hide and go seek, and the great company of
the daughter and the cousin, and (oh, who could have seen this coming?), I made
some FIRM whipped cream. Think
‘spackle.’ The cousin was right: whips
up faster when you crank up the motor! Just as the garlic bread burned and one child could be heard laughing
hysterically (“Alejandra fell asleep in the hamper!”), I pulled the cream back
from the very brink and made something out of it that really could not be
photographed, but whose data can serve us all well.
coffee mousse
½ c sugar
2 T Dandy Blend, or 1-2 T instant coffee (depending on your
passion for coffee intensity)
¼ c cornstarch
1 ½ c whole milk
1 pint (2c) heavy cream
dash of vanilla
In a small saucepan, mix the sugar, coffee and cornstarch
until lumpless and well-combined. Slowly
add the milk, stirring all the while, and mix until smooth. Cook over medium heat,
stirring without stopping no matter who is asleep in the hamper, and continue
cooking until it thickens obviously, about three minutes total. Pour into a medium bowl (one that is a bit
too large for this quantity), and press a piece of waxed or parchment paper
right onto the surface to prevent a skim from forming as it cools. Cool it down at least to room temperature,
and possibly also refrigerate if you have time.
Whip the cream and vanilla using vigilance and attention to
soft peaks. SOFT. Reserve about a quarter of the cream in a
separate bowl (or drop it into a pastry bag if you are feeling fancy). Using a balloon whisk, combine a dollop of
the unreserved cream with the coffee mixture, to lighten it, then scrape this
mixture into the cream bowl and lightly but thoroughly combine the two. Scrape into one large or several individual
dishes, and garnish each with the reserved plain cream. Refrigerate for as long
as you can stand to wait; a couple of hours is ideal.
Crumbled chocolate snaps or chocolate shavings would gild
the lily nicely, if you feel it calls for gilding.