Perhaps you already know how to say “cherry pitter” in
Italian. If so, skip down a few
lines. If not, let me be the first to
tell you that the word is snocciolatore.
Meaning, at least to my way of top-level linguistic thinking, that one would be correct
enough to call the instrument, in English, a “snoculator.” It’s a handheld device for pitting a single cherry or olive. I forgot I had one. Then
I remembered. (For the record, in case
you are clicking over to fact-check this story on Google Translate, you
will be told that “snocciolatore” in Italian translates to “stoner” in
English, but if you ask GT to translate “stoner” to Italian, it remains
primly
mum on the subject. If you just google
up “snocciolatore,” the first thing that will happen is you will see some images
of pitting devices, and then the second thing, if you are anything like me, is
that you will begin corrupting the lyrics to the Three Stooges version of Bizet's “Toreador”
song in your head to accommodate this word.
If you are not anything like me in this regard, count your lucky stars.)
With only a few pounds of cherries to show for my second
pass at the trees this week and plenty of snackers in the house, the stock was
dwindling for that clafoutis adventure I said I would tell you about. Before the last pound vanished, I set the
youngest offspring to work with the snoculator.
Twenty minutes later, we had one boy, obscured by cherry juice from
fingertips to elbows and from ear to ear, and maybe a half pound of neatly
pitted cherries. (It’s important to taste every fourth or fifth one that you
pit, to compare it to the three or four with pits that you are eating every two
minutes to keep your strength up.)
When I was a tot, my mom often cooked from a book called “How to
Grow And Cook It.” I am pretty sure the
clafoutis of my youth came from there.
It was a dandy. We ate it all the
time, with all kinds of fruits. It whips
up in a moment and satisfies all kinds of desires. Years later, when my thoughts ran back around
to this custardy dessert that rhymes with "patootie", I turned to a recipe in Molly O’Neill’s New York
Cookbook, and I loved that one pretty much too.
And then, once again, I took some years off from clafoutis-making. But
last Friday’s clafoutis was made from
that recipe, and wouldn’t you know it but the bloom was off the rose.
The texture was not quite as I hoped, and the flavor only so-so.
Two of my heroines have made clafoutis recently, and their
takes—quite different—intrigued me, (here's one, and here's the other) as did a Food52 version. In the end I triangulated, and what a
triangle it was. If you have never
clafouted, think of something along the lines of a dense cake, or a
sweet
version of Yorkshire pudding, or a popover that has failed in all the right ways. Think of eating it, as Laura suggests,
with a little mascarpone or creme fraiche on top, or think of eating it,
as I just did, standing up at the counter.
A classic version gives the snoculator the day off and
claims that extra deliciousness results from baking the thing with the pits in
place. I knew someone here would break a
tooth, so I sacrificed that element of flavor.
But try it if you feel brave. If
you lack cherries, rest assured a peach or apricot clafoutis will rock your
world just as profoundly.
fruity clafoutis
about half a pound of cherries, pitted and halved
a good scraping of lemon zest
a nice splash of white wine
1/3 c sugar (divided)
1/4 c heavy cream
3/4 c whole milk
fat pinch of salt
3 eggs
1/3 c all-purpose flour (I used a gluten-free one and the result was tasty)
2-3 T almond flour or meal (this is probably optional, but it was quite yum)
Mix
the cherries, lemon zest, white wine and 1T of the sugar in a small
bowl, and let them settle while you mess around with the rest of the
tasks.
Preheat the oven to 350. Generously butter a 10" glass pie plate or ceramic baking dish.
In
a medium bowl, combine the remaining sugar and all the other
ingredients. Whisk or blend (with an immersion blender, say) until
perfectly smooth.
Pour
the cherries and the juice they have accumulated into the prepared pie
dish. (I won't tell anyone if you taste this mixture.) Now pour the
batter over the fruit, and pop that bad boy into the hot oven. Bake
until puffed, set in the center and browned at the edges, about 30-35
minutes--but keep an eye on it after 25 minutes, as ovens vary a lot.
It
will deflate rather quickly on its way to a temperature you can safely
eat it at, but do not fret. Still delicious, either gilded with a tart
dairy product on top, or eaten as is. Makes a superior breakfast snack,
if you have any left over.